TIF Challenge February 2

I’ve been overtaken by life for the last couple of weeks – this weekend was the first chance I had to get back to the TIF Challenge for February, and February is nearly over! I was thinking about joining fragments of fabric like fragments of memory, so I got out a pile of fabric saved from clothes I’ve worn to pieces over the last 30 years or so and tore a small square of each. Then I looked at several kinds of insertion stitches from Mrs Christie’s Samplers and Stitches, the book my grandmother used. Laced, twisted, knotted – how I struggled! Learning stitches from diagrams doesn’t come easily to me. I double checked the moves in one of the first embroidery books I ever got, back in 1984 (Needlework School by the Practical Study Group), but still I struggled.

In the end, I worked out how to do one stitch – buttonhole insertion stitch using a Tailor’s buttonhole – which is the same as buttonhole stitch but with an extra knot in the formation. I was jubilant when I got the hang of this!

buttonoholeinsertion.jpg
tailorsbuttonhole.jpg

I stitched the pieces together on a background fabric that was also an old shirt of mine, then cut away the background. It was something like shot viscose – another time I would use a natural fabric that would fray well. I managed to cut through one or two of the insertion stitches as I cut it away as well 🙁

stitched sample

I’m not sure if this sample will be the final piece or not – I’ll tell you on the 29th! I’d like to do another version on a different background, maybe a dark silk. I’d like to try a variation on vanishing fabric with machine insertion stitching. And I would love to master some more of those tricky hand stitches…

February TIF Challenge 1

Sharon’s question for February – What are you old enough to remember? – has set me thinking about the way we remember and how our memories evolve. I have a lot of gaps in my memory. I remember much less than, for example, my husband Alan who has an amazingly vivid recollection of much of his childhood and often tells me things that I’ve already forgotten about our children’s childhood. I’ve blanked out a lot, perhaps, and more has passed me by while I’ve been lost in the fog of depression. Still, thinking back and discovering what I do remember has been fun…

I remember fish and chips in newspaper, our local paper was the ‘News and Star’ – a man called Billy used to sell them, his cry familiar to everyone who walked through Carlisle in the evening, it sounded like, “on er Evening News, there’s nut muny lift now”, and on Fridays it was the Cumberland News – I remember when Cumbria was Cumberland. I remember another man calling outside our little terraced house for “rags and bones”, and the man covered with dusty black who brought the coal, and the rattling of the coal as he tipped it from his sack into the metal bunker. I remember watching the Woodentops, and then we would say to Mum “What are we having for dinner today?”, and she would answer “nothing for you but sawdust and hay!”. I remember Hammy the Hamster on the riverbank and Andy Pandy and Vision On and Dixon of Dock Green. I remember Tiny Tears (my very own baby) and Tressy’s bronzy hair, and florins and thrup’ny bits and once my father showed us a guinea. We drank tepid school milk through paper straws from little glass bottles, then lay down to rest on mats on the hard floor for what seemed like a forever of wriggling and peeping. We had inky fingers and blotting paper covered in splotchy shapes.

Later on I remember buying vegetables from Jacky Main in his market garden, we would take down a list for Mum and he would fill our bags with his big earthy hands. I remember carrying my books to school in a basket with a plastic flowery cover, and listening to Bohemian Rhapsody for months, new magic every time. I saw Mott the Hoople in Carlisle Market Hall, and listened to Alan Freeman while I did my homework. I wore hotpants and embroidered cheesecloth shirts and love beads and maxi skirts, and bruised my wrists with clackers. I remember my Mum buying Golden Hands week by week, and we crocheted afghan squares and knotted macramé and made strange geometries with nails and thread.

Random, domestic memories, like open windows into the past, let’s see what’s through the round window today… I wonder what has happened to all the rest, those experiences I know I had but can’t recall. Are they there, buried somewhere? Or have they crumbled into dust?

I couldn’t sleep the other night, and I started to think about my grandfather, George Richardson. He was an archaeologist and he took me with him on digs. I can only have been 7 years old when we were digging at Swine Sty in Derbyshire, and I remember how special it felt to touch a sliver of flint, a Bronze Age tool, so so old. Later I washed shards of Roman pottery as we dug on Hadrian’s Wall. I remember that vividly: swirling reddish water and a small scrubbing brush; drinking instant coffee made with Marvel from a flask and listening to the talk flowing above my head in the caravan where we had our lunch breaks; sitting for hours on the ground with a little diamond shaped trowel and a brush, scraping always with the edge of the trowel, not really digging at all, brushing the loosened earth, scraping, brushing, slowly gently bringing to light these treasures that had been hidden for so long.

If there was a ‘find’ – a tiny piece of pottery or a bone, or a stone in an odd place, maybe, they would gather round, draw it, record its position before delicately lifting it out and labelling it. Items from the same section were bagged together and later it might be possible to reconstruct them, fitting these ancient shards together and seeing the gappy, broken shape of what they once were reappear.

I recall all these things, but I don’t know which dig it was. I remember a woman’s name – Dorothy Charlesworth – so I ‘asked’ Google, and discovered that Turret 51A, Piper Sike, was excavated under her direction, in 1970, when I was 10. The time is right and the name rings a bell. It could have been there, but I can’t be sure. My parents don’t remember, so maybe I’ll never be sure – the fragments of my memories are held together by uncertainty.

As I searched for information, the English Heritage site told me “Piper Sike has a cooking-hearth”. Reading that, faint stirrings of memory at the edges of my mind – does it sound familiar, do I remember that?

How easy it is to change and shape remembrance. We have access to collective memories that become entwined with our own. How hard it is to distinguish our own memories from those we have heard about so many times that they seem like our own.

The words we use – remind, recognise, recall, recollect… to know again, to bring back… Reconstructing the broken pieces. Reminders, ways we gain access to the shards of memory that are hidden below layers and layers of years, scraping, brushing, uncovering. Some things should remain undisturbed, but others are delightful and exciting when they’re brought out into today.

For the challenge, I am thinking of fragments of memory as fragments of cloth – a puzzle of pieces, linked together, but not quite fitting, perhaps joined by insertion stitches, which I don’t yet know how to make but can learn from this book.

samplersandstitches.jpg

Mrs Archibald Christie’s Samplers and Stitches, which came to me from my grandmother Peggy Richardson, née Brodie. She learned beautiful art embroidery in Glasgow in the 1920s. I would love this challenge piece to be connected to two people who shared with me their deep love of history and the significance of the past.

Postscript: While I was searching Google I discovered that George Richardson left an archive of archaeological papers, which are in the Tullie House museum in Carlisle. I never knew… how amazing, I can go and look at these and maybe fill in some more of the gaps.

thinking about cloth and limitation

The first task for starting work on manipulating fabrics was to sort the fabrics into colour groups, and the course suggests two hours to do that and cut samples from each type of fabric for a pinboard. I have too many fabrics, I think! I will take a little longer over it because it’s a good motivation to get them organised so I know just what I have to work with. I always find sorting anything a bit of a challenge because I see too much as borderline (it’s the same with my filing cabinet). I knew that aspect of it would be hard, so I designated a pile for patterns and mixtures as well as the clearer colours and just threw anything too complex on that pile instead of spending time trying to make small decisions.

I sorted about half the fabric yesterday, and today I made some sample sheets, using only my own dyed fabrics. I’ve done them loose-leaf so I can keep them in a folder and add to them, and I’ll just pin up the whole sheets for reference. These are all cottons and silks, so tomorrow I’ll make some more sheets with other types of fabrics from the sorted colour boxes.

The idea is to make it easier to pick out the ‘right’ fabrics for collages to interpret some of my design work – it will certainly be more systematic than my usual method of just diving into an amorphous mass of colour and texture and pulling something out. I got out my copy of Jean Littlejohn’s Fabrics for Embroidery, as I thought it would be good background reading for this section of the course, and this kind of recording of fabric is the first thing she suggests – every time you get a new one, stick a little piece in your notebook… I should obviously have taken more notice when I first read it many moons ago!

fabric samples

On the subject of having too much fabric, Littlejohn points out that before the expansion of the fabric trade, people were limited to the materials in their local environment,

These limitations encouraged people to be endlessly inventive with the materials at their disposal.

I know I have a tendency to collect more, rather than using up what I have, not just new fabrics but new ‘must have’ products and new techniques as well. There’s a place for these, of course, but I think it’s also an important challenge for me to learn how to practise the traditional skills that my grandmother would have recognised, and to be inventive with the stuff I already have (some of which once belonged to her, in fact).

I was thinking about limitations and about the way people would use and reuse fabric in the past, and I did a mindstorm on the words wear/worn as the first step towards constructing a garment (or part of one) which comes a bit later in the course. That piece has to relate to and grow visually from the design work I’ve done so far, as well as what I’m about to do, but I think I also need to anchor it in some way, otherwise I’ll flounder. The work I did in January for Sharon’s Take it Further Challenge gave me a new sense of the power of limiting and channelling ideas, and it also showed me how much strength I personally can gain by playing with words and thoughts as part of the design process.

mindstorm

thank you

I just wanted to thank everyone who left such lovely comments about my January TIF challenge. I was quite overwhelmed. I’m still exploring the amazing variety of wonderful work produced in response to this challenge, some of it collected here and here for easy browsing, and lots of links in the comments here.

Sharon has posted the Take it Further Challenge for February, it’s a question –

What are you old enough to remember?

Just musing at the moment, so more on that soon.